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Any tips on fireworks @ night? (Canon s5is)

 
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mattr37 Reply with quote



Joined: 13 Mar 2008
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Location: Columbus Ohio

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 8:37 am    Post subject: Any tips on fireworks @ night? (Canon s5is)
 
Wanting to know if anyone has ideas to try for taking shots of fireworks?
I took the slr 101 class(It was awesome) Any ideas would b gr8.
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Kerig Reply with quote
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 12:22 pm    Post subject:
 
Tripod, tripod, tripod!!!!!

The first thing to try on your S5is, would be the "fireworks" mode in the SCN section of the dial. I've never used the "fireworks" mode on any camera before, so it will be a little bit of trial and error, but then again, most fireworks shots are. At least with that acutal scene mode, the camera will be set up for a more proper exposure.

Now if that doesn't work, it looks as though you can set the shutter speed to be about 15 seconds long in M or TV mode. Its not a "bulb" mode, but the closest thing to it. You don't have to use the entire 15 seconds, you might try 2-3 sometimes.

I think the biggest 'trick' to fireworks is timing. If you are at a large organized display, usually you can here the ingnition of the rocket so you know its coming. Sometimes you can see its trail as it goes up so you have some idea where the burst will be. Since your camera doesn't have the 'bulb' setting, you'll want to watch one burst first. Get an idea of how long it takes from the ingnition sound to when the burst actually appears. If it takes about 3 seconds, then once you hear the ignition you can either wait a second or two if using the "fireworks" mode or press the shutter release and let it begin the 15 second (or shorter) exposure. Once the burst is over if the camera is still taking the photo, you can cover the lens with something like a hat so that if there are other objects in the photos your not 'burning them in.' Also with the 15 second exposure it might be long enough for a second burst to go off, but try and cover the lens in between if you can.

You are shooting digital so you'll have the advantage of seeing some results while you are "testing" your methods. Organized displays usually run about 20 minutes or longer so you should have plenty of time to get some things figured out. Also, relax while doing it. There will be the typical excitement/pressure going on, and if you get caught up in it, it will lead to mistakes. Scout your area first if you can... look for things like powerlines, street lights, branches all things that you usually won't see when caught up in the moment of the display.

Also be sure and read some of the posts here... FIREWORKS they aren't S5is specific, but they might help...


Goodluck and have FUN!!!
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Last edited by Kerig on Fri Jul 04, 2008 1:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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caroline Reply with quote
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 12:32 pm    Post subject:
 
Well, you can try the fireworks mode if you want. If you're feeling more experimental, you can:

mount your camera on a tripod,
(otherwise you'll have squiggly fireworks. Not entirely bad, but if you want to do it "right"...)

put it in manual focus mode and focus at infinity
(otherwise the camera gets confused shooting at night and will search back and forth looking for something to focus on)

put it in "M" mode and
-- set the shutter speed for 2" or 3" (you can experiement with this, as this value isn't really set in stone but you want to have the shutter open long enough for the firework to "pop" and "spread". You can leave it open longer and get several bursts, but from my experience this can be tricky. The smoke can cloud the shot. Speaking of which, hope for a good breeze, as that will help clear the smoke from burst to burst)
-- set the aperture to f/8 or f/11 (again, not set in stone. You really don't have to worry about depth of field at this point, since you're surpassing the hyperfocus distance)
-- set the ISO to something relatively low. (the tendency is to think "I have to jack up the ISO so I can get a better shutter speed because I'm shooting at night. But really we're using a tripod, so shutter speed isn't an issue. What you want is the smoothest "grain".)

Speaking of which...check and see if your camera has any kind of noise reduction or long exposure noise reduction. If so, turn it on.

I don't think you have a remote option with your camera, so you'll either wing it and hit the shutter button, or set it onto the self-timer 2second mode. Even though I'm generally a fan of the self-timer mode, I think it would be really difficult to get the timing right. As it is, getting the timing right on fireworks is a little like double dutch jump rope -- you have to get a feel for the rhythm, you can hear it get sent up it's just a matter of getting the timing right from the launch to burst. It's not tough, though, and two or three bursts into it you'll be fine.

So:
manual focus at infinity.
Manual exposure, f/8 and 2-3"
Tripod
play with self timer or not.
Have fun.

(and if all else fails, use the fireworks mode)
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Kerig Reply with quote
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 1:10 pm    Post subject:
 
Good points Caroline.... forgot to mention the fstop. I'm with you, F8 usually worked the best for me. (if setting it manually)

And then there's that nasty smoke you mentioned... I always forget about that until after shooting. If there is any light coming from the ground (street lights, buildings etc) then it tends to light up the smoke too, so the longer the exposure the more chance that the smoke will be in there.
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caroline Reply with quote
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 1:24 pm    Post subject:
 
Oh, great point about taking care to frame the shot! Forgot to warn against the powerlines. Personally I think that getting something interesting from the skyline can make a firework shot by adding a little context. A church steeple, an interesting building or city skyline, etc. As much as it seems like a great idea, a flag doesn't work. Plays well to context, but it won't stay still for 2",3" or 15", so it just ends up being a distracting mess in the foreground.

Have fun.

Oh, and don't forget to be aware of your surroundings. It's easy to get really into your camera and the shot and forget that you and your expensive toy are easy targets.
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